We arrived in a blanket of whiteness that consumed everything below and everything above. As the light changed and the temperature rose, four villages emerged from their slumber beneath Shkhara - one of the highest summits of the Caucasus - to welcome us into their midst. Ushguli (უშგული) is the label for Chazhashi, Chvibiani, Jibiani, and Murk’meli that make up the Upper Svaneti UNESCO World Heritage Site. The highest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe. As the hours passed from beneath pillowy drifts of snow emerged rusting Land Cruisers, friendly locals, cows, dogs, horses, ancient churches, carved doors and stone walls with crevices inhabited by lichen and moss. We wore out our legs, our lungs and our camera batteries before settling in for one of the best meals I enjoyed during our entire visit to Georgia. Dish after dish arrived so hot that even inside the tavern, the crisp mountain air made their steam rise like ghosts above our plates. I don’t count or cross off UNESCO...